Harbor at Papeete, Tahiti

On August 15, 1922 our adventurers boarded SS Tahiti to embark on the first leg of their return trip home and a few unique passengers came along as well, four Tuatara or Sphenodons.

They were a gift from the Dominion Museum in New Zealand to the University of Iowa. Professor Nutting had secured permits to transport them to the United States. Once situated on the lower deck the animals were given food and water and were quite contented. However, a fellow human passenger was not so contented health-wise. While in Wellington, New Zealand Dr. Stoner became ill. At one point he was confined to his bed, due to a jaundice attack. Further complicating his condition was the development of a bad cold a few weeks before sailing to New Zealand. He felt very bad, because he could not accomplish as much as he wanted to while in New Zealand. Nutting remarked that Stoner looked "quite weak and pale" so he felt it was very lucky to have Mrs. Stoner there, since she was a professional nurse and could look after him.

On August 17 their first stop was at Rarotonga, eighteen hundred miles from Wellington. The ship's doctor had seen Stoner at this point and diagnosed his condition as a not very severe attack of jaundice. Professor Thomas, who was the most gregarious of the party, enjoyed mingling with the other passengers and engaging in deck sports.

The second stop on the return trip was Tahiti. Nutting compared it to Dominica (British West Indies) in appearance with its "lofty mountains hiding their heads in the lowering clouds." This island within a chain called Society Islands was explored by Captain Cook in 1769. The capital city is Papeete. Nutting considered it a lovely town with streets paved with shade-trees and French houses peering between them. Although Dr. Stoner was not allowed to go ashore at Tahiti, his wife took pictures and mementos to share with him.

The morning of August 27, the ship cross the equator and Dr. Stoner and the tuataras were doing fine. Many of the passengers liked to visit the tuataras on the lower deck. As the vessel approached the American coast on the eve of September 2, great waves pounded the ship, but that didn't dissuade the passengers from enjoying themselves to the fullest. Below are two journal versions of that evening from the perspective of Professor Charles C. Nutting and graduate student, Waldo S. Glock.

Entries from Nutting and Glock journals on the last day at sea, September 2, 1922.First, Prof. Nutting’s official account….
“The sea became rather lumpy as we neared the American coast. There was much drinking on board as the passengers were taking advantage of their last chance before reaching prohibition territory. There seem to be little effort to restrain them and they kept up a veritable ‘rough house’ nearly all night with a good deal of profane and even indecent language”

And now for graduate student Glock’s account....
“The smoke room, scene of hilarity! Bottles of Scotch and glasses were everywhere. Norton was flushed of face and glassy eye; Polly was follish drunk; Walsh was wild-eyed and red. Mong oozy eyed; Haines perfectly silly; Mrs. Brandeis itching for greater revels; Myrtle knew enuf to stop; Owen began to stagger…2:30a.m. they fell back exhausted, an incoherent mumble the last spark from the battered frames. Once having started there is no stopping, on and on, more, more-more, to the bitter end.”

September 4 was disembarking day in San Francisco. Both Dr. Stoner and the tuataras were in great shape. The rest and medical attention had proved successful for Stoner. At one point the ship's doctor had contemplated surgery so he was glad he didn't have to resort to that aboard the ship. Once Dr. Thomas conferred with officials about getting the collections and equipment through the party went its separate ways except for Dr. Wylie and Professor Nutting. They took a train to Iowa City. However, before doing so Nutting arranged for overland transportation of the special passengers.......the tuataras. A slight mishap occurred with the separation of the baggage car that held the tuataras from the dining car, in Nevada! Nevertheless, Nutting was grateful that those he had entrusted with the delivery of the tuataras followed through and they arrived safely in Des Moines were he was able to secure them for the University.